Sea Breeze Bottle Bag

What you need:

• 180 yards of worsted weight yarn. This pattern has been tested in Red Heart Super Saver, Big Twist Living, Loops & Threads Impeccable, and I Love This Yarn. 

• 6mm (J) crochet hook

• Tapestery Needle 

• Stitch markers (optional)

• Scissors

Stitches & Techniques to know:

• sc - single crochet

• dc - double crochet

• hdc - half double crochet

• v stitch - double crochet, chain 1, double crochet all into the same stitch

• ch - chain

• sl st - slip stitch

• Invisible Join - Bella Coco has a wonderful video on it here.

• puff stitch - yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, insert hook, pull up a loop, insert hook, pull up a loop, yarn over, and pull through all the loops on your hook. Do not chain after the stitch. You can find how to do the braided puff technique here. 

• In the third loop - working stitches in the third loop of the stitch from the row before. 

Tips & Tricks:

• When you do the braided puff section of the pattern (the last few rows of the bag), please watch the video. 

• When placing the last hdc of the second braided puff row (row 21), place it in the first puff stitch from row 20. 

• You can make the bag portion longer by adding 4 rows of the repeated section. Make sure you end on a repeat of row 8 for the next rows to work out.

• If you need to make the bag wider, add a few extra rows of increases (rows 1-4). The counts should work out no matter what. 

• The strap can be as long or as short as you’d like. At 45 rows, it’s a nice over-the-shoulder bag. If you go up to 55, it will stretch to be a perfect cross-body situation. The bag and everything stretch once you put a full water bottle in it. 

• If you don’t want the bag to stretch much, you will need to use cotton yarn. The bag is designed for acrylic and accounts for stretching. 

• The bag fits at 40oz Hydroflask with it stretched.
  
  

Gauge: Worked in rows of double crochet.
2 inches by 2 inches equals 7 stitches by 3 rows. 

Body of the bag:

Start with a magic circle

• Row 1: ch 2. dc 8 times into the circle. Join with a sl st. (8 dc)

• Row 2: ch 2. dc 2x in each stitch around. Join with a sl st. (16 dc)

• Row 3: ch 2. *dc 1x in the first stitch, dc 2x in the next*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st. (24 dc)

• Row 4: ch 2. *dc 1x in the first two stitches, dc 2x in the next*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st. (32 dc)

• Row 5: ch 1. hdc in each stitch around. Join with an invisible join. (32 hdc)

• Row 6: ch 1. *sc in the first stitch, sk 3 stitches, dc 7x into the next stitch, sk 3 stitches*. Repeat from * to * around. Join with a sl st to first stitch. (4 shells, 4 sc)

• Row 7: ch 3 (this counts as the first dc and ch for the v stitch), dc into the same stitch, *ch 5, v-stitch into the sc from the row before*. Repeat from * to * until you work into the last sc from the row before, ch 5 and join to the first v stitch with a sl st. (4 v stitches, 4 ch 5 spaces)

• Row 8: Ch 2 (this counts as first dc in the shell), dc 6 times into the v stitch. *sk 3 st, sc over the ch from the last round and into the top of the shell, dc 7 times into the v stitch* Repeat from * to * around until you work a shell into the last v stitch. sk 3 st, sc over the ch from the last round and into the top of the shell. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. (4 shells, 4 sc)

• Row 9: ch 6. *v stitch into the sc from the row before, ch 5* Repeat from * to * around until you have worked into the second to last sc from the row before. v stitch into the last sc. Join to the beginning of the ch 6 space with a sl st. (4 v stitches, 4 ch 5 spaces)

• Row 10: ch 1, *sk 3 st, sc over the ch from the last round and into the top of the shell, dc 7 times into the v stitch* Repeat from * to * around. Join to the first sc with a sl st. (4 shells, 4 sc)

• Rows 11-16: Repeat rows 7-10, finishing on row 8. 

• Row 17: *ch 2, sk three stitches, sc in the top of the shell, ch 2, v stitch in the sc from the row below*. Repeat from * to * around. Join to the first ch with a sl st. (8 ch 2 spaces, 4 v stitches)

• Row 18: Ch 1. *hdc 2x in the ch 2 space, hdc 1x in the sc, hdc 2x in the ch 2 space, hdc 1x in the dc, hdc 1x in the ch 1 space, hdc 1x in the dc*. Repeat from * to * around. Join to the first stitch with an invisible join. (32 hdc)

• Row 19: ch 1. sc in the third loop of each stitch around. Join to the first stitch with a sl st. (32 sc)

• Row 20: ch 1. *sk st, hdc into next stitch, puff stitch into sk st* Repeat from * to * until you have one stitch remaining. hdc into last stitch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first stitch. TURN (16 puff stitches. 16 hdc)

• Row 21: ch 1. *sk st, hdc into next stitch, puff stitch into sk st* Repeat from * to * until you have one stitch remaining. hdc into last stitch. Join with a sl st to the top of the first stitch. TURN (16 puff stitches. 16 hdc)

• Row 22: ch 1. hdc in each stitch around. Join with an invisible join to the first stitch. (32 hdc)

• Row 23: ch 1. hdc in the third loop of each stitch around. Join with an invisible join to the first stitch. (32 hdc)

Proceed to the strap:

• Row 1: Ch 2. dc 1x in the first 8 stitches from the last row of the bag. TURN (8 dc)

• Row 2: Ch 2. dc 1x in each stitch across the 8 stitches. TURN (8 dc)

• Rows 3-45: Repeat row 2

• Row 46: ch 1. sk 8 stitches from the last row of the bag. sl st row 55 of the strap to the bag across 8 stitches. 

Break off your yarn and weave in your ends!