Optimism Cowl

The Story:

For the last 15 years, I have hoped my hockey team would make the playoffs. They didn’t do so for 14 of those years, and this year I was able to have some optimism. I also needed a project that I could do while watching the playoffs, which was how this cowl was born. It’s mindless once you get the stitches down and perfect for making while watching TV. Unfortunately, my team didn’t make it past the second round of the playoffs, but it was still fun to have some hope and optimism about the season and future. 

Let’s go Buffalo! 

What you need:

• Hook that matches yarn weight - See table below for suggestions

• Any weight yarn - See table below for exact yardage per yarn weight.

• Stitch markers

• Tapestry needle

• Scissors

• Optional leather tag

Things to know:

• sc - single crochet

• sl st - slip stitch

• hdc - half double crochet

• fhdc - foundation half double crochet 

• cldc - chainless double crochet. Without chaining, work a sc into the indicated stitch, then chain 1. Working through the bottom bars of the first sc, work another sc. (See tutorial section for video)

• v-st - double crochet, ch 1, double crochet into the indicated stitch

• cbdc - crossed back double crochet - skip stitch, double crochet in the next st, ch 1, double crochet in the skipped stitch behind the first double crochet. Do not capture your first stitch. (See tutorial section for video)

• cfdc - crossed front double crochet - skip stitch, double crochet in the next st, ch 1, double crochet in the skipped stitch in front of the first double crochet. Do not capture your first stitch. (See tutorial section for video)

• 3LO - third loop only. Work into the third loop of the previous row

• Invisible join - remove your hook from the work. Insert the hook in the first stitch from the back to the front. Grab the loose loop from your last stitch and pull it through the stitch from the front to the back. (See tutorial section for a video)

Tutorials:

Cross DC (Front) - Cross DC (Back) - V-Stitch - Chainless DC - Foundation HDC - Invisible Join

Tips and Tricks:

• This pattern can be made with different weights of yarn, as this is worked in multiples of two and is a four-row repeat. There is a table that shows information for the different yarn weights.

• This can be made as tall as you would like. I aimed for 10 inches, but you can go bigger. Just repeat the four rows until it’s as large as you’d like. 

• While blocking isn’t necessary, if your tension isn’t even, a light blocking could help with straightening out the edges

• If you do not want to do the foundation half double crochet, you can chain your starting stitch count, join with a slip stitch, and work a row of half double crochet. Be careful not to twist the chain! 

• You do not have to do the chainless double crochet on the v-stitch rows. You can simply chain 4 (dc + ch 1) or chain 1 and work a double crochet. You will still need to sl st to the ch space

• Stitch markers are your friend! Place one every 10 stitches while doing your foundation row to make counting easier. If you mess up, you just go back to your last stitch marker. I also find placing one on the first stitch of the row makes it easier for me to find it. Totally optional, but could make your life easier! 

• This pattern is best if worked in two different yarn colors. I find mixing a variegated and a solid or tonal gives a really cool effect. You can also use a ton of contrast or two coordinating colors. If you want to check your contrast, take a photo and turn it black and white. If there isn’t a massive difference in your yarns in black and white, it may get muddy. That being said, this is a pretty flexible design for any yarns. At the end of the pattern are some examples in different combinations and yarn weights. 

Information for each yarn weight:

To work the cowl in different yarn weights, work rows 1-3 as written, then repeat as many times as needed until you reach the two rows from the total number of rows listed above. You will then work the two edging rows.

Pattern:

• Row 1: fdhc 120, using the join method to join in the round with an invisible join. (140, 120, 100, 80 fhdc)

• Row 2: ch 1, sc 3LO in each stitch around. Join with a sl st (140, 120, 100, 80 sc)

• Row 3: cldc, ch 1, dc in the first stitch, sk 1 st. *v-st in next st, sk 1 st*. Repeat from * to * around and join with a sl st.  (70, 60, 50, 40 v-st)

• Row 4: ch 1, work a cbdc across the v-st from the previous row (skipping the ch space) in each v-st around. Join with a sl st. (70, 60, 50, 40 cbdc)

• Row 5: sl st to the ch space. cldc, ch 1, dc in the ch space. Work a v-st in each ch space around. Join with a sl st. (70, 60, 50, 40 v-st)

• Row 6: ch 1, work a cfdc across the v-st from the previous row (skipping the ch space) in each v-st around. Join with a sl st. (70, 60, 50, 40 cfdc)

• Row 7: sl st to the ch space. cldc, ch 1, dc in the ch space. Work a v-st in each ch space around. Join with a sl st. (70, 60, 50, 40 v-st)

• Rows 8-23: Repeat rows 4-7. See the table below for the check boxes. Depending on the weight of the yarn determines which columns you use. If it states Bulky, you will do just that column of checkboxes. You will work each column of boxes until the one indicated for the weight of yarn you are using. 

See table below

Edging Rows:

• Row 1: ch 1, hdc in each st around, skipping the ch spaces. Join with an invisible join. (140, 120, 100, 80 hdc)

• Row 2: ch 1, sc 3LO in each stitch around. Join with sl st. (140, 120, 100, 80 sc)

Fasten off and weave in your ends. Gently steam the block if the edge needs straightening. 

Edging Rows:

• Row 1: ch 1, hdc in each st around, skipping the ch spaces. Join with an invisible join. (140, 120, 100, 80 hdc)

• Row 2: ch 1, sc 3LO in each stitch around. Join with sl st. (140, 120, 100, 80 sc)

Fasten off and weave in your ends. Gently steam the block if the edge needs straightening.